Argentina Part 3: Recoleta

Previously -
Argentina Part 1: Palermo, Provoleta & Parillas

Argentina Part 2: Futbol

For the next part of our stay in Buenos Aires, we moved from Palermo to the Recoleta neighborhood. Even though it only took us a few minutes to travel from one to the other, they were worlds apart in terms of character and energy. As we drove, it quickly became clear why Recoleta is known as the Paris or Upper East Side of Buenos Aires - the buildings got taller, the streets got cleaner, the architecture changed and the homes, storefronts and restaurants seemed more posh. Goodbye hipster, hello old money.

Our home for the next 4 days was the Alvear Palace Hotel, also much different from our previous accommodations. The Alvear was built in the 1930s and has a grand and bustling feel. Some may complain that it's old and stuffy, but we both were happy to experience the opposite (luxurious) end of the lodging spectrum.

We packed quite of bit of sight-seeing, leisurely meandering and cafe lounging into our time in Recoleta...

Some mornings started with a run. Every morning started with coffee.

We roamed the streets of San Telmo, known for it's tango and Sunday market. While there, we window-shopped antique stores...

...watched pop-up tango...

...and spent an afternoon people-watching at Bar Plaza Dorrego.

We viewed the Casa Rosada...

...took in the colorful sights of La Boca...

...marvelled at the modern architecture of Puerto Madero...

...and decided we could most definitely live in this city.

We strolled towards the city center and saw the Teatro Colon...

...took a reading/photo/nap break in Plaza de la Republica...

...and discovered the lively Calle Florida.

We shopped the ubiquitous polo stores (think authentic Ralph Lauren times 10) and the Al Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore.

We joined a tour of Recoleta Cemetery...

...got lost in the maze of mausoleums...

...heard many interesting stories and urban legends about their inhabitants...

...and saw Evita's tomb, of course.

The only thing we missed was seeing tango at a milonga. My pregnancy bedtime was fully to blame. Each day it sounded like a good idea, but each night after dinner my pajamas won the battle. I guess it gives us something to return for!

But wait, I'm not finished. Did you really think I'd leave food out of a travel post? As we did in Palermo, we ate well in Recoleta. Italian at Sotto Voce. Torrontes, meat, potatoes and provoleta #3 (anyone counting?) at Fervor. Lunch at the famous La Biela.

And of course ice cream. Chocolate suizo (chocolate ice cream, dulce de leche swirls and chocolate chunks) at both Freddo and Un Altra Volta.

Finally, my 2 cents: As much as I love to tackle a new city by foot, somehow Ed and I have made it a travel must-do to take a big bus tour any place we visit. Travel snobs may scoff at this, but it really is a reliable way to gain a good perspective of an unfamiliar place. Not only does it help you get your bearings, but the hop on/off factor makes it an easy and efficient mode of transportation for an entire day. Plus you get some tourist-geared facts and stories thrown in for good measure!

Next up: Our final leg at Estancia La Bamba de Areco